Installing a new hardwood floor over an existing hardwood floor is a good decision. The existing hardwood floor can act as a solid and secure subfloor that will work well. As long as you prepare things properly, an existing hardwood floor is a better subfloor than plywood or other subfloor options. Proper planning is imperative if you want to avoid any problems that could occur during the installation process and after the floor is installed.
Perhaps the most important step in the process is to thoroughly inspect the existing hardwood floor and weed out any problems that exist. One of the most common problems with the hardwood floor, especially if it has been down and lived on for many years is that it can be uneven.
The uneven structure of the hardwood floor can cause problems, especially if you are using smaller fasteners or a glue-down installation for the new floor. If there are any high spots, they should be sanded down so that you have very little variation in height from one part of the floor to another.
Of course, there is likely to be some variation from one side of the room to the other but if it happens too quickly, you are simply going to compound the problem when the new hardwood floor is installed.
If there are any loose fasteners or if the existing hardwood floor has a squeak, that is something that must be fixed before the new hardwood floor is attached. More than likely, you have lived with the squeaky floor for quite some time and have even grown accustomed to that particular part of the floor making noise when you walk on it.
In fact, when a subfloor is squeaky in just a small area, it can make for a very large area of problems when the new floor is installed. One other issue that needs to be cared for before the new floor is installed is to consider the transition from the new floor to other floors in the home. There are some transition strips that can be installed to make it easier to transition from one level to the next. Otherwise, it would have to be a complete tear-out before the new floor is installed.
An existing hardwood floor is an excellent subfloor and can be used under engineered wood floors for installation. Any type of surface can be used under engineered wood floors, including vinyl, laminate, tile, and concrete.
As long as the existing floor is relatively free of problems and provides a smooth, flat surface, it will work well under an engineered floor. One of the most important factors for installing an engineered hardwood floor over an existing hardwood floor is removing any imperfections in the existing floor. It is thinner than bamboo hardwood flooring but thicker than the finished bamboo area rugs you can buy.
The slats are tight up against each other — which means you can really pinch yourself when you are unrolling it. Be careful! Once flat, however, there is no pinching or splinter worries.
Spills have yet to penetrate through. We wipe up messes as we would any hardwood floor. The natural brown in our entryway is holding up better than the black we have under the chairs in the dining room, but even that is holding up remarkably well under the constant in and out of chairs. Take this post to your local lumberyard. Perhaps they have a source as well. Another source is online at Home Depot. Part 2: One year later follow up…. It is interesting to learn a little bit about some alternatives to carpet.
Often I have been thinking about wood flooring, but I was not sure if that would be the best alternative. This gives me some better ideas. We did learn wheelchairs are hard on them. We had to reposition it quite a bit with the wheelchair wheeling around though. We used duct tape to hold the two pieces together under the dining table.
It moves a little bit overtime with the in and out of chairs, but not enough to make me feel I need to secure it. The twisting of a wheelchair when our son broke his leg was hard on it, but foot traffic and chair sliding is fine. If you find a source let me know! I can only find 4 foot long slats, versus the 8 foot ones I have.
I could kiss you, seriously. Me and my partner just moved into a place for a great price, in a great location with amazing space but the decor is distressingly bad. My germaphobia is doing back flips right now. Thank you for this suggestion! After a year it didnt develop any molds or moisture right? Please share if you have any cleaning tips, do u just let the carpet be or you have to vacuum it also?
Thanks for the info! I just did a deep cleaning — you made me curious. I took pictures and will do a full post. A year follow up is a good idea. No mold or moisture to report. Still very happy with it. I want to make our brown carpet disappear. At any rate, you will need to use quarter round along the bottom of your baseboards to cover the expansion gap. While acclimation with this product is not required, we decided to err on the side of caution and allow 48 hours for acclimation before installing.
You also want to make sure there are no moisture issues with your subfloor or crawl space before beginning. Step 1.
Step 2. Attach second plank to butt end of first plank by overlapping exposed locking edge of first plank with the second plank edge. Step 3. Gently tap butt seam with a mallet to lock the planks together. Step 4. Continue until full length plank must be trimmed to fit at the end of the first row. Step 5. Step 6. Use the excess length cut from last plank as the first plank in the second row, starting from same wall as the first row.
Rows always will start from left to right. Slightly angle piece so the long edge locks into long edge of plank from first row. Seams should always stagger from previous row. Attach next plank in same fashion. Lay plank down flat and use tapping block and mallet to engage locking edge into butt end of previous plank. If it has, gently tap row against spacing blocks with tapping block and mallet. Step 7. If any trimming is needed around AC vents or cabinet angles for instance use a jigsaw to make cuts.
Step 8. Once a doorway is approached, the door casing will have to be cut to the thickness of the plank so the plank may slide under it. Position a waste piece of plank against the door casing. Rest the oscillating saw blade on the plank and cut away door casing.
Now the section of flooring will be able to slide under casing. Step 9. If a transition piece is needed at a doorway if two different types of flooring will meet or if flooring changes direction as in our case , you will need to leave a gap for the transition track.
After a dedicated 5 days of installation this was the total labor time required for my living room, foyer, hallway, dining room and two bedrooms , I am absolutely thrilled with the transformation…. When walking over the new flooring, you would never guess! In a separate post, you can read all of the details about my living room transformation by clicking here.
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